The (almost) perfect trip to Lake Polly in BWCA

Lake Polly Trip Report

Our third trip to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) was nearly perfect, except for one small thing. Small to us in the end since everyone was safe but nearly catastrophic, wait until you hear the tale. Want to hear why? Read on.

We woke up a 6A.M. on a late August Sunday morning. There was a chill in the air as if fall was just around the corner. We packed our camping gear in seven packs the night before. That morning, we grabbed the food and loaded the car. We had 4 backpacking packs, 3 canoe "Duluth" (or Granite gear) packs, 2 small dry bags, 1 bear barrel, 1 large REI camp dreamer XL sleeping pad, as well as 5 lifejackets, 4 paddles, 3 fishing poles, 2 seat cushions, and 1 yellow tackle box. 

I ran back inside the house to grab an extra hoodie sweatshirt that said, "Washington" in purple capital letters across the front. I bought it my first year in Seattle as an intern at the University of Washington but it was too big and it was in the pile to give to Goodwill. I grabbed a few hats, too, just in case the night time temps dropped. We closed the garage door and set off for our adventure in the north woods. 

Our first stop was Sawbill Outfitter in Superior National Forest. We turned off Highway 61 headed north out of Tofte, MN. We passed hundred-year old tall white pines and poplar trees with trunks bigger than the size of elephant legs. Leaves on a some maple and birch trees were starting to change colors - from green to dark red and yellow. We watched the BWCAW safety video, signed a waiver, and picked up our two canoes and four canoe paddles. The outfitter helped us load them on the car and tie them down. From there it took about 30 minutes on a packed dirt road to drive to our BWCAW entry site #37 - Kawishiwi Lake. 

We pulled into the boat launch, lifted our canoes off the car and gently set them in the clear blue lake. The sky was pale blue with a few puffy clouds. We couldn't have picked a better day! The website for BWCAW entry permits opens in late January. We had reserved this permit on a 20 degree winter day and had been planning the trip for months. 

The surface water reflected the blue sky and white clouds but the water was clear and you could see down to the small pebbles along the bottom. We packed the canoes, carefully got in, and away we floated. 

Grandpa John had been on over a dozen trips to the BWCAW. This was my 4th. Seth had been on more adventurous trips to the Quetico in his 20s. First, we paddled northwest across Kawishiwi Lake to the Kawishiwi River. We followed the river past a number of small beaver lodges and small dams to Square Lake. We paddled around the bend and continued to follow the Kawishiwi river to Kawasachong lake. Kawasaschong means "fog" or "mist" in Ojibwe. Fire damage from the Pagami Creek fire in 2011 left burned tree trunks on the hill sides but with lots of new growth for the next generation. 

Fire damage from Pagami creek fire in 2011

We only had to unload the canoes once and carry the canoe about 30 feet to get over a large beaver dam (portage #1). We repacked the canoes and passed a few more beaver lodges before entering Kawasachong lake. On the north end of the lake there was a series of long portages - one 189 rods to Townline lake and then another 95 rods from Townline lake to Lake Polly, our final destination. (1 rod = 16 feet. 320 rods = 1 mile.) This was our most ambitious BWCAW trip yet. 

It was getting late in the afternoon and we finally arrived at the first of our two major portages. There was another group at the portage and we heard from them that there were quite a few other groups a head of us and the peninsula and island campsites we were coveting were taken. We started to panic a little, "What if all the campsites on Lake Polly are occupied? What if we do not get a campsite on Lake Polly?" The guy at the outfitter told us to continue on to Lake Koma and Malmberg but we crossed our fingers it wouldn't get to that. 

Theo and Seth were in one 2-person kevlar canoe while Grandpa John and I were paddling the other 3 person canoe. Our photographer, Mar-Mar, sat relaxing in the middle seat. Each canoe had a walkie talkie to communicate but we tried to stay close together just in case of any major issues. The conditions were great for paddling with very little wind and no rain. The adults had to "double back", a.k.a. make two trips, on each portage to carry all seven packs, 5 lifejackets, 4 paddles, 3 fishing poles, 2 seat cushions, and the tackle box, as well as the two canoes. We loaded up and hauled all of our camping and fishing gear and food from one side of the portage to the other. The portages are like hiking trails between lakes; some are well traveled and well maintained, others require a lot of bushwhacking and way finding. The kids did great carrying their own packs. Marit's pack was full but light stuffed with travel pillows and her sleeping bag and stuffie (named Bambi) while Theo's was considerably heavier with had one of the tents, chairs, sleeping bag, sleeping pad and games (Qwix, Uno, and a deck of cards). 

We finally arrived on Lake Polly and decided to check if any of the eastern campsites were taken. These sites tend to have the best views west for sunset. The first site was occupied. Bummer. We continued paddling. The next site we came to appeared unoccupied. Marit jumped out to check it out. It had 2 small tent pads but they were at a slight angle towards the lake and prior campers had noted they tended to slide downhill in their sleeping bags at night. We left a few packs and then paddled on to check out a few more desirable sites but they were all occupied. So we returned to our not-quite-perfect site and set up camp.

Grandpa John, a.k.a. fire master, and the grandkids, collected a variety of twigs, branches and logs from fallen trees and started a fire in the designated fire pit. I set up the tents and got the packs unpacked. Seth opened the bear barrel and pulled out the semi-frozen steaks and veggie packets. He grilled them to perfection over the hot flames and we devoured our first meal in the BWCAW as the sunset across the lake and a pair of loons swam. Shortly after dusk we heard them wailing - vocalizing as they call back and forth. It's a sound you'll never forget and is synonymous with clear unpolluted lakes in Northern Minnesota, Wisconsin and the Northeast. (Here's a great video about loons in Acadia if you are interested). 

The next three days were relaxing. Sleep until the sun comes up. Use the latrine. Read a book. Boil water for hot cocoa and coffee. Lower the food bag from the tree. Pump water into nalgene bottles. Go fishing. Watch the loons. Eat breakfast. Go fishing. Take a day trip (explore a different part of the lake or portage to a new lake). Eat lunch. Relax in the hammock. Go fishing. Gather more dry driftwood along the shore for firewood. Go swimming and practice tipping the canoe. Cut firewood. Pump more water into nalgene bottles. Make dinner. Catch frogs and toads. Watch the sunset. Build a fire. Clean dishes. Make a wish on the "First star I see tonight." Start a fire. Roast marshmallows. Play a card game. Watch the moon rise. Use the latrine. Hang the food bag in the tree. Go to sleep. Repeat. 

One of the beautiful parts of the BWCAW is that you can unplug and unwind. There is no cell service. No internet. No streaming services. No game consoles. No cell phones. No news (good or bad). It is just good old fashion family time and outdoor fun. We only had a brief episode of rain on day 2 and otherwise the weather was perfect, highs in the 60s and low 70s. The lake was mostly calm like glass with spiral pine trees perfectly reflecting on the water and only a couple bugs at dusk.  

We celebrated his 69th birthday on day 4. We enjoyed a nice paddle on the northeast end of Lake Polly where we saw a large snapping turtle and a family of three swans. After a quick snack and bathroom break, we headed back to our campsite. We came upon the family of loons fishing. I put my paddle down and pulled out my zoom lens. I took about a hundred (or more) photos. The parent kept catching small fish and feeding it to the juvenile loon, who was probably around 6-10 weeks old. 

We hadn't caught any fish that day when all of a sudden Grandpa thought his line was snagged. (Theo had snagged his line three times and lost all 3 lures trying to get the line unstuck.) Next thing you know, Grandpa's reeling in his line and it's magically not stuck and here up comes a big ol' walleye! Happy birthday JP! What a perfect present! Marit named the walleye Bobby. We brought it back to camp and Marit was devastated to learn what it meant to filleted a fish. We had a small ceremony for Bobby and then ate it for dinner. Unfortunately, we forgot the bottle of oil to fry it in Shore lunch breading. However, we cooked up some summer sausage sticks and greased the fry pan. We lightly pan-fried the fresh fillets with a dash of Lowry's seasoning salt; it was so tasty!

Marit earned $0.25 for catching the first fish - a decent size northern on Komo lake on day 3. She also earned $0.25 for catching the most (four) and the smallest fish (sunny). Grandpa John got $1 for catching a walleye. I caught a big northern that jumped off my line just as I was reeling it in by the boat. I got the award for the biggest one that got away!

The last day we packed up and started our adventure back home around 10A.M. The lake was calm with fog rising off the lake at dawn. The packs were lighter since we ate most of the food. The bear barrel was nearly empty. We closed it up after finishing the oatmeal and put it in the canoe pack surrounded with our dry tennis shoes. We didn't think it would rain so we didn't put the packs in black garbage bags but kept them easily accessible if needed. Seth and Theo headed out across the lake just as a brisk southerly wind started to blow across the lake. We bribed Theo and said if he paddled consistently on the way out, we would take him and Marit to the amusement park Valleyfair the next day. He did a great job for 11 years old! 

We efficiently paddled across Polly, portaged (#1) to Townline, paddled, portaged (#2) to Kawasachong, paddled up the river, portaged (#3) around the beaver dam, and paddled the river into Square Lake. 

Finally, we paddled along the river into Kawishiwi lake. We were nearly home! 

Just as we rounded the corner into the main portion of Kawishiwi lake, the southerly wind blew right at us. There were small white caps on the lake. My plan was to attack across the lake to the eastern shore and then hug the shore to get to the parking lot on the other side. While we started to make progress into the wind, the other canoe immediately got pushed and turned around. Seth tried to circle back but without a heavy paddler in the front, the headwind was too strong and they kept getting pushed off course. After 3 times, Seth tried to paddle backwards and then turn around the canoe by having him and Theo paddle on the same side. I tried to find the tow rope but it was packed in the bottom of a canoe pack. It was difficult to get at and so I started unpacking the pack to get the rope out. Just then, we hear, "Help! We're in the water!" I turned around, Theo and Seth had capsized and were floating in the water. 

They were both wearing lifejackets. The water was relatively warm - upper 60s (warm for northern MN lakes). The sun was out and the sky was blue. 

We quickly paddled across the lake to help rescue them. Another canoe from a campsite across the lake also paddled over to help. We arrived to find them holding onto a partially tipped canoe, 2 wet people, and 4 floating packs. Marit started crying and was scared that our canoe was also going to tip over in the strong head wind. She wanted to be taken to land. We paused briefly to figure out a game plan.

All 4 of their packs were miraculously floating upright in the water. First, we hauled the two lighter backpacks into our canoe. We helped turn the canoe upright. Then we transferred the other two heavier canoe packs into our canoe. It was difficult to paddle with them hanging on to their canoe with the wind. Since they were ok. they swam their canoe to a nearby island 200 or so yards away as we paddled around the island to be more protected from the wind and waves. By the time they arrived, they were struggling with mild hypothermia. Theo quickly took off his wet shirt and we found my Washington hoodie, which miraculous was stuffed in the outside of a backpack that stayed dry on top of the floating pack in the capsized canoe. He put it on. We waited for him to warm up. He then zipped up his wet lifejacket over the hoodie. We decided to take a different route and follow the western shore and stay out of the wind. 

I pulled out the tow rope from our pack just in case. The sun quickly warmed everyone up. We reloaded their canoe and got back to paddling. We made it 2/3 of the way around the lake when we had to cross a bay. We hung back as Seth and Theo attempted to cross first. The south wind immediately turned their canoe around nearly 180 degrees and they had to circle around to try to cross it again. Twice they failed as the wind was too strong across the bow of the boat. We decided to use the rope and tow the front of their canoe to help keep it straight. Thankfully, it worked! 

We made it back to entry and campground parking lot. Eventually, we dropped off the canoes and made it back to civilization where we could text our family that we were alive. We said we had "an adventure," which is codeword for a trip that doesn't go quite as planned. Besides the minor capsize hiccup and running out of toilet paper on day 4 of 5, we fortunately didn't lose anyone or anything major (except 2 nalgene bottles that we accidentally left at a portage on our day trip to Koma lake on day 3). 

Overall it was a 5 star trip and we can't wait to go again next year. 

Fauna sightings:

3 loons (2 adult, 1 juvenile), 3 swans (2 adult, 1 juvenile), 4 red squirrels, 2 snakes, 2 eagles, 1 osprey, 2 fischers, 4 gray jays, 1 black backed woodpecker, 1 walleye, 4 northern pike, 1 sunfish, 1 hummingbird, lots of dragonflies, 1 large snapping turtle and a half dozen small painted turtles, 1 beaver, 1 kingfisher, 1 grackle, lots of frogs and toads, 2 ruffled grouse, ravens and a small mouse. 

Here are some tips we'd like to remind ourselves for next time:

Tie the ropes to the canoes at the start.

Bring emergency roll of TP and put it in with the first aid kit in the dry bag "just in case"

Bring a first aid kit with bandaids in the dry day pack

Packs float (for some period of time)

You cannot have too many water purification tabs or matches to start a fire

Consider renting/purchasing pulley for raising the food bag

Line the backpacks with garbage bags in case they get wet

Leave some air in the ziplock bags

Don't forget the Washington hooded sweatshirt - 4 out of 5 people approve

You can never have too many bungee cords

Don't forget a small bottle of oil or butter for cooking

Double check every portage. Don't leave your nalgenes or nice fishing poles!

Watch the YouTube video for canoe to canoe rescue and open capistrano flip and re-entry technique. Practice it at the cabin. 

Meals for next time - meat lasagna, steak and veggies, veggie and egg scramble, chicken and stuffing with gravy, chicken noodle bowl for Marit