Fagradalsfjall volcano eruption

We were fortunate to have planned our Macalester soccer reunion trip to Iceland for early August because the week before we arrived a large earthquake shook the area just south of Reykjavik. Turns out, it was an earthquake caused by the pressure of magma. A week later, molten lava started spurting out of a new fissure that opened up. The freshest new rocks on earth were being formed and it was happening near where my friends live in Grindavik, Iceland. Given that the lava is in a dry valley and not flowing into the ocean or by any water, there weren't any ash disrupting air travel. Our trip was a go and we were going to see an erupting volcano!

We were staying with our former Macalester soccer teammates, Olof and Erla, two sisters who are from Grindavik. Grindavik is a small fishing village of only 3,000 people near the Blue Lagoon, just south of Reykjavik. At night we could see the red glow from the volcano over the hills. During the day, dark smoke and a gray cloud of gases streamed across the sky.

Dark smoke and gases from the volcano

We arrived on Sunday morning and the visibility was terrible. The volcano had been erupting for only a week and tourists and locals were flocking to see it. Unfortunately, the police and rescue teams decided to close the volcano the day we arrived. Police were parked blocking the road and parking lots. The path to the volcano was not well marked. The government was moving quickly to make the trek safer. Rescue crews were having to fetch tourists daily. Many were ill prepared for the moderately difficult 8 mile trek and were not following local recommendations. Some became injured, others lost.

Finally, on day 4 of our trip the rain stopped and dense white fog cleared. Officials announced the volcano was reopened at 9:30AM. This was our chance! We immediately packed up. Nick and Cara flipped a coin to see who would get to go. Cara won, tearfully agreed. The boys were on kid duty. Olof dropped us off at the base by 11AM. Suddenly, we were surrounded by thousands of our new best friends, a.k.a. other locals and tourists, who were waiting (im)patiently to see this incredible natural phenomenon.

The first mile was relatively flat and then we began the climb over the first mountain. The rescue teams had been working every day and night to lay down dirt and gravel on top of the difficult and rocky terrain to form a path for us.

Mile 1. View of the prior lava flow and hikers down the mountain

The path up had a number of switchbacks and then around mile 1.2 is just stopped. We borrowed hiking poles from Olof, which were very helpful as we navigated the field of large boulders. We tried not to roll our ankles as we had many times playing soccer at Macalester. After an hour or so, we crested the 1st mountain. We carefully climbed down a muddy hill. Only one person slipped and fell on her bottom. Fortunately, only her pride was injured. At the bottom of the hill we ventured onto the black lava from last year's eruption. We didn't dare go far for fear of possible lava caves or tunnels beneath. Steam could be seen rising from the old lava field in the distance. We grabbed a few black, light and airy, vesicular igneous rocks in our pockets for souvenirs before returning to the "trail".

Just over the next crest we saw it for the first time. Shooting hundreds of feet into the air - bright red glowing rocks. "Holy $hit!" We exclaimed! Spewing out of the earth like a fountain was red hot molten lava. Some chunks flew so high that hardened and turned to black as they fell from the sky, splashing down into a lava lake. Molten lava flowed down like a small rapid into a lava swamp before exiting the valley. We made our way down the steep hill for optimal viewing. Sitting down on soft damp moss, we opened our packs and pulled out our water bottles and sandwiches. This was the best picnic ever!

Watching the show

The rain clouds moved in and after watching the mesmerizing lava for nearly 45 minutes, we packed up as it started to drizzle. We all packed rain gear, hat and mittens, which were essential for the windy and rainy trek back to the road where Olof picked us up. It was an incredible experience and I couldn't wait to go back with Seth, who kindly stayed back to entertain the kids, another day.

On Saturday, after returning from a few relaxing days on the Snaefelsnes Peninsula in West Iceland, Seth and I treked out to see the volanco again. Despite the sun setting around 9:45PM, it was light out until 11:30PM. We pulled out our headlamps for the last mile of the trek. We passed thousands of people hiking back before dark and were happy to spend time at the volanco with fewer people. We heard french, english, and probably a dozen other languages we didn't understand along the trail. Looking back down the trail were hundreds of tiny lights all in a line. Finally, we arrived. We hiked all the way down to the bottom of the valley to get close to the lava field. It was deceptive because at the bottom we couldn't see over the 10 plus foot high wall of black hard lava. We climbed back up the hill to get a better view. The visibility was great and there was hardly any wind.

The air smelled like burning matches.

"It's burning rock," said one rescue worker as he monitored the toxic gas levels.

"How high are the levels?" I asked.

"They are normal." He reassured me.

After an hour watching the volcano spew, we packed up and hiked back. Led only by the glow from our headlamps guiding our way we made it back in time to get a few hours rest before flying home.

Date night! Watching the show at 2A.M.

Selfie with a VOLCANO!

Video:

In January, we went to the Big Island and were also fortunate to see the Kileaua volcano erupting. We learned that it's good to see during the day but going back at night is even better. Pictures don't do it justice but it's something I hope you have the opportunity to experience for yourself. Of the approximately 1,350 active volcanoes on Earth, there are fewer than 50 that are currently erupting and only a dozen that are accessible to humans to see and feel the heat. This is the second erupting volcano that we've been to in 2022 and I will never forget it.

Timeline:

July 31. The day of the 5.5 mag earthquake near Grindavik, Iceland. Nearly 5,500 earthquakes were registered under the Krysuvik-Trolladyngja volcanic system on the Reykjanes Peninsula since July 30, 2022.

August 3. The fissure opens and the volcano begins erupting

August 10. The Mac crew (Cara, Annie, Robin and I) make the voyage over a barren land to see something that most people will never see in their lifetimes - molten lava erupting from the Earth!

August 13. Seth and I return to see the lava glow at night. Once (or twice) in a lifetime experience.